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Glorious beaches, sub-tropical gardens - and heaven for astronomy: How dark skies and a community observatory have added to the Scilly Isles' star attractions

It's famous for its glorious beaches, subtropical gardens and as one of the Royal Family’s favourite holiday spots. Now there’s another reason to visit the Isles of Scilly: to explore the night skies.

Meteor showers and even the Northern Lights have been observed from St Martin's (above)

The inaugural Scilly Dark Skies Week has just been held on St Martin’s, the archipelago’s northernmost populated island. And it’s all about COSMOS – the Community Observatory St Martin’s – which opened in 2019.

It's not just a tribute to the islands' dark skies but to St Martin's locals, including the jeweller who fundraised by designing a telescope pendant, staff at the island's only hotel - the setting for fundraisers - and the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group, which provided a grant.

The archipelago's northernmost populated island has almost no light pollution and 120 residents, who refer to the narrow concrete path that stretches from the harbour to the northern tip as the motorway (although I only spot one car, owned by the hotel).  

In 2016 a gaggle of locals and passionate stargazers who'd been lugging their telescopes here for years decided to make their skies more accessible by constructing a community observatory. One was Mark Holmes, who'd received the British Astronomical Association's Sir Patrick Moore prize after setting up Cheshire's High Legh Community Observatory.

The island of St Martin's (above) has just 120 residents and almost no light pollution. 'Gaggles of locals and passionate star-gazers have been lugging their telescopes here for years,' says Tamara

The island of St Martin's (above) has just 120 residents and almost no light pollution. 'Gaggles of locals and passionate star-gazers have been lugging their telescopes here for years,' says Tamara

After three years of grant applications, logistical minefields and planning meetings - held in the only pub, where a constellation-like tangle of fairy lights dangles from wonky wooden beams – the observatory opened in 2019.

I saw the Milky Way [from St Martin's] clearer than I've ever seen it, and I've viewed it from places famous for having the world's darkest skies' 
Professor Ian Morison, Jodrell Bank Observatory

Stars, it seems, were always on the radar of COSMOS chair Val Thomas. 'I went to school here and stars were always part of my life. I remember seeing the Northern Lights as a child and knew about the Milky Way and when Venus was brightest. And my brother and uncle both went to sea, and learned to navigate using the stars.'

COSMOS, tucked behind the island's community centre, comprises two domes with two high-power telescopes, next to a tech-filled warm room lined with photos documenting the construction process. One shows the domes, fresh from the mainland, dumped unceremoniously on St Martin's tiny dockside.

I visit during COSMOS's inaugural Scilly Dark Skies Week. Events include talks about dark sky photography and guided walks around the island. And, of course, stargazing sessions.

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